![]() MY house was built in 1980 and has 56 circuits of it. It’s nice to hear from someone else who has the GELV stuff. Part of me wants to systematically remove the low voltage system and replace with modern wiring/switches but that would mean running 110 lines to all switch plates and I would lose the functionality of the ‘easy’ low voltage control. It would have also allowed me to keep the rest of the system (switches, RR7 relays) in tact.Īt $30-$40 per RR7 relay, I cant afford to blow them out at a higher rate than they are normally supposed to last. This method would have been decently economical at about $20 to $30 per switch (depending on sale prices) if the relays didn’t pulse for too long, and if they were still available. If my ‘pilot’ test of three relays did well, I had plans of one Monoprice relay and two SSRs per switch, all mounted inside of a large electrical enclosure and mounted on the wall in my garage (where one of the master switches are). Im looking for something that I can hopefully tap off of one of the master switches that currently controls 8-10 devices, with option to tie to other switches throughout the house as long as I could get the 24v low voltage wire to it. Additionally Monoprice apparently no longer sells the curtain module relays. Also having to power them with a separate 12v DC transformer definitely makes it a little more cumbersome than I’d like. I agree that they pulse for too long, in fact I am starting to notice some extraneous wear on one of the most commonly used relays (louder buzzing, sometimes will not ‘latch’), I am sure you know the symptoms). I have the Monoprice curtain relays you mention set up inside of plastic enclosures triggering one of two separate SSR relays (one for on, one for off) to trigger the 24v pulse on or off to three different RR7 relays. I too have the GELV and have been messing around with tying it into my Smartthings network. It certainly doesn’t offer the versatility of today’s Z-wave/Zigbee systems but it’s served me well since new and it allowed me to do some nice “tricks” as far as controlling the house goes.ĭonArnold, I would be very interested in hearing more about your automation setup with GELV if you have time or a link to a write up if you have one. I’m fairly familiar with the GE system since I installed it in 1980. The same lack of feedback would exist with this solution. My solution doesn’t require an additional power supply because it “steals” its power from the existing GE circuit. I didn’t select this method because i feel the pulses are a bit long and, most importantly, you have to provide an external power supply for the Monoprice box. The contact closures last about one second in the default mode. It provides a momentary dry contract closure for ON and a separate one for OFF. I plan on adding more automation controls as time permits.Īn alternate solution for operating the GE system is to use the Monoprice no-name curtain control. The one flaw in the system is SmartThings doesn’t report the status of the circuit if I use the old GE switches but the GE switches, which have pilot lamps, do report the status correctly regardless of which control I use. The existing GE momentary switches still operate along with my SmartThings automation. I’m now using regular dry-contact Z-Wave devices for many of these circuits. I’m an electronics hardware designer by trade so I designed a small circuit board that connects directly across the existing GE switches and allows me to control the circuit with a “standard” on/off switch which is closed for on and open for off. I wanted to add automation but the available on/off controls aren’t directly compatible. ![]() There are 56 circuits of this system for the house. My home has this old GE control system for all switches. aeon relays… THen you can use the existing switches to switch the relays but they would also work with SmartThings… While I’m at it, why isn’t there an in-wall switch with a battery (maybe even a rechargeable one!), so as to support houses with line-interrup…ĪNother solution is to replace your central transformer with lots of e.g. I think maybe I’m just using the wrong vocabulary… it seems like such a thing really should exist. There are plenty of remote controls – handheld sorts of things, or else elaborate multi-switch keypads, but not just a simple “switch” remote or “dimmer” remote that doesn’t tie into house wiring at a switch box. I don’t seem to be able to buy a wall-mounted switch (as in, I want to Velcro or glue it to the wall, without a box), with the radio powered by a battery, that I can use to control my various lighting scenes and whatnot. I’m confused about why every wall switch seems to require house power. ![]() Battery-powered switches and dimmer switches Devices & Integrations ![]()
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